This trip was our 25th wedding anniversary trip which included walking Wainwright’s Coast to Coast Path, but first we had the customary Easter week in Scotland. Our adventure on the Coast to Coast walk will be described separately. In fact, the Scotland trip turned out to be one of our most successful Munro bagging trips.
We flew to Edinburgh and drove to Pitlochry where we stayed at one of our favourite B&Bs – Ellengowan Guest House. As usual when traveling via Edinburgh, we stopped for a break at what at the time was called Vane Farm RSPB reserve on Loch Leven. It’s now Loch Leven Nature Reserve; still RSPB .
Our first objective after settling at the B&B was to deal with some unfinished business from 2004 – completion of the Ben Lawers group of Munros. Our previous hike had been cut short from this 5-summit walk because one of our group fell and broke and arm in the descent from An Stuc. We could see lots of snow on the summits.
So on Thursday 2 April we set out towards Loch Tay and the parking area for the trail. As usual we used the map from WalkHighlands.co.uk.There were two remaining Munros for us to bag – Meall Greigh and Meall Garbh. The walk started along the farm track along the Lawers Burn which leads to open fields.
On the way we saw a very sick and dying sheep struggling on the ground near the path. When we reach the snow, we followed another walker’s footprints
It was a quick stop for tea and gorp at the summit of Meall Griegh after a steep climb and complaining from calf muscles.
Next we went down to the col and up following fence posts to the summit of Meall Garbh via the North ridge.
Rime ice had accumulated on the fencing. There were excellent views all around.
It was with some trepidation that we descended, because we almost certainly had to cross the Lawers Burn. We had memories of wading across this in 2004 when it was in spate. Again. we approached it below the small dam. This time however the snow in the hills had not melted and there was a small trickle of water.
After the burn crossing we startled a mountain hare, then it was a straightforward descent along the stalkers path after consuming 1/2 a sandwich and more tea. Along the way we saw two dead sheep in a field near a stile. Of course we had to have a a glass of beer in the Ben Lawers Hotel. Dinner was at the Kenmore Hotel near the loch.
3 April
Stiff muscles after yesterdays hike. After breakfast we visited the distillery (another stamp on the whisky passport), John Muir Trust headquarters and had lunch at Hettie’s tea room. Bought presents and spotted Bob’s car in the car park so we met up with him for a wall around town including the dam and fish ladder. Tea back at our room.
Met Bob at Fisher’s Hotel and walked to the Moulin Inn for dinner. Very crowded.
4 April
Breakfast of smoked salmon and scrambled eggs before setting off for Inverness. Met Bob at Tesco’s for the big shop and some refreshment (tea and scone). Then on to Achnasheen.
Ledgowan Lodge Hotel. Staff sent home for the week so we could have the hotel for self-catering.
Met the manager, brought in food, started shopping vegetables and prepared sauce for lasagne, then put 4 dishes pans in to bake. Others arrived intermittently. John Ormerod brought “reject” pizzas for starters.
Not the best kitchen; 2 small ovens, 1 small sink, 1 narrow glass fridge and 1 small fridge. Phil paid some extra to get the function room at the back of the hotel – lots of carrying to and fro.
Heat overachieving depute turning it down or off. Fiddly shower temp. In bed at midnight.
Easter Sunday, 5 April
Sunny, up at 7, plans for Ben Wyvis.
Good day. Car park full, well maintained path, huge number of stone steps up An Cabar.
Great views. Oil rigs at Invergordon. Maybe not the nicest things to look at though
Boggy walk across melting snow to the summit.
Lunch at the cairn
Views in all directions.
On return to the hotel we had a hot bath and congratulated ourselves on another Munro.
3 Morgan cars arrived. Their drivers expected the hotel to be open to the public. They had to scramble to make alternative arrangements having come from Wales without booking rooms. A bit reckless on Easter Sunday. Probably they would need to go to Inverness and a chain hotel.
Delicious salad, fish pie + apple crumble. Sat with Dave B, Pam, Phil, Jeanne, John. later had the annual discussion of politics with Dave B.
Monday 6 April
Joined a large group heading for the glen in the Ben Eighe nature reserve. Started up the valley east of Liathach.
It was a well maintained path.
Clive, Gordon and Bob
Great views of a moody Liathach bringing back memories of past triumphs
Occasionally Liathach was visible in full splendour. We walked around the end of Sail Mhor to Loch Coire Mhic Fhearchair. Great waterfalls, frozen spray, Wind blowing steadily.
Plenty of opportunities to look at Torridon sandstone
Ate lunch behind boulders near the loch. Retraced our steps after glimpsing views of triple buttress. Davd L took a tumble; scratched, but no real damage. Young William walked the whole 9 miles – quite a trooper – chocolate helped him to an inspired finish.
Richard, William and Phil leading the way back.
We saw some frog spawn on the way.
Tea at the hotel afterwards followed by showers. Bob M and Carole arrived. Splendid dinner of fish pate, beef with veg and Janet’s trifle. Sat with Jean, Bob M, Carole and Jesper. Talked to Richard, Mandy, Clive and Di about politics, etc. Whisky toast to Bob I with a bottle of Jura.
Tuesday 7 April
We headed for Poolewe and the Post Office, at some pint we stopped at the Beinn Eighe visitor centre in Kinochewe and looked at the exhibits. Participants in a microcar rally were parked outside including a 1960s Fiat 500 and a Heinkel bubble car.
Most of the day was spent at Inverewe Gardens where we joined the National Trust for Scotland. It’s a Victorian era collection of plants from around the world. Many varieties of rhododendron, some in bloom. Huge cypress, cedar, etc. Plenty of spring understoryplants in bloom: arum, lily, grape hyacinth, skunk cabbage (just like home), lungwort, healthy rhubarb and espaliated trees in the walled garden. There are winding paths through plantings and around small ponds. There is a viewpoint over Loch Ewe where seabirds can be seen.
The House at Inverewe Gardens. There are exhibits inside.
There follows a series of photos of plants.
Tea in cafe!
Birds seen: Hooded crow, 3 common buzzards, red-breasted merganser (4), white-throated diver (3), oyster catcher, chaffinch, robin, blue tits at feeder, herring gull.
The evening meal was leek and potato soup, chicken, pavlova.
Wednesday 8 April.
Sunny. This was to be one of those splendid days that we will remember forever. No summits climbed, but a super walk in the Coulags with Dave Campbell and his daughter, Jenny. We chose a circuit of Meol Chean-dearg (aka MCD), a route mentioned on the Walkhighlands website.
We followed a track through a sheep farm to the Coire Fionnaraich bothy. Ate lunch at a sheltered spot above Loch coire an Ruadh StoicThe sun glittered on the dark blue water. there was a good view of Bein Demph.
The route continued clockwise around the north of MCD. Many puddles with frogs’ eggs. There was a view of Liathach.
Around the shore of Loch Eion we met an older couple (older than us that is!). They were taking a break by the loch. After climbing over a beallach we dropped down to another third loch; Loch Coire Fionnaraich. Some boggy spots until we returned to the main path and the walk out via the bothy. Many photos. Great day. Back at the car at 6:00 PM. 12 miles.
Birds: Meadow pipit.
Dinner was smoked salmon, beef pie with multiple veg, cranachan with shortbread dessert.
Thursday 9 April
Betsy had done some research on the Fannaich, specifically the four Munros in the areas that we had not done. They are up a 4-mile paved road maintained by the water company that operates the Loch Fannaich dam. It continues along the side of the loch to Fannaich Lodge. Betsy had obtained permission from the water company for us to drive up to the dam. Very enterprising! Jesper had volunteered to help us navigate this walk.
This was to be a long day, so we picked Jesper up at 8:15 and we parked at the dam at 9:00.
We reached the first peak at 11:00 via a steady climb. The wind was very strong on the tops.
On to the second peak, via a ridge walk.
Along to Sgurr Mor, the highest peak
Quick snak at Sgurr Mor which we reachjd at 2:00 pm the we were off to the fourth peak by 3:00 pm. The wind was so strong that we had to crawl to the summit from the leeward side and touched the top because we could not stand. We retreated by the same route. Headed back toward Sgurr Mor to avoid a snowfield and down to the bealach by the second summit.
A stalkers’ path provided an easy route down to Fannaich Lodge which we reached at 6:30 pm, Arrived at the car at 7:30 and back at the house by 8:00 pm. Somewhere on the stalker’s path I lost one of my favourite hats. It must have fallen out of a pocket. I wonder if it’s still there?
A big day and four munros! Tired, but not as much as expected. Quite an adventure.
Mushroom soup, tartafleche, ganache cheesecake.
Animals seen: stags, does
Birds: buzzard, 3 ptarmigain, meadow pipits, skylark, tawny owl hooting at 4:00 am.
Munros: An Coileachan, Meall Gorm, Sgurr Mor, Beinn Liath Mor Fannaich
Friday 10 April.
After two big days a rest was in order. We slept in to 8:30 then had morning coffee with Jesper, Bob and Jill. In preparation for the Coast to Coast walk we did two loads of laundry. It was a sunny day with a slight breeze, so we went to Plockton with Jesper.
We had an al fresco lunch at the Plockton Inn, walked around. the tide was out so we were able to get out to the island, Bought postcards, drove to Lochcarron weavers, back at Ledgowan by 5. Started packing, head tea, folded laundry, helped with setting table, serving and clean up.
Birds: Oyster catchers, Seagulls, chaffinch, tawny owls hooting after dinner.
Quite a week! Now on to the Edinburgh the south to start the Coast to Coast walk.
Saturday 11 April
On to Edinburgh.
Up early; finished packing. Breakfast and kitchen clear out. Snatched a few items from the food frenzy.
Started south at 9:45. Took the whisky tour at Muir of Ord. AS;; 12 years old Singleton is sent to Asia. We paid for tasting 12. 15 and 18 year old. 18 year old was especially smooth.
Arrived i Pitlochry at around 2:30 for tea and lunch and heade to EFI to return the car. We made it in time to avoid and extra day of rental. After moving everything to Bob’s car we checked in to the Premier Inn and took the bus into the city. WE had a pint in “The Abbotford”, a haunt of Bob’s from his college days then we had dinner in another pub on Rose St. It was a cold wait for the bus back to the hotel. After using the hotel WiFi to catch up on email we were in bed at 11:30.
Birds seen: Lapwings, chaffinch, pheasant, seagulls, oystercatcher, crows, jackdaws, crows, common buzzard, rtooks
Sunday 12 April.
Up after shower, big breakfast at hotel, rain.
Bus to city. walked around, shopped. Toured Sottish National Gallery. Many rooms of mostly religious themed European paintings. Enjoyed the portrait galleries especially the Rembrandt self-portrait, then looked at the Scottish artwork – portraits and landscapes – familiar views. Tea and flapjacks in the cafe.
Went back to Rose St. Bought things at Tiso outlet, made dinner reservations at Jamie’s Italian. Checked out then Royal Mile (very touristy) then onto Holyrood and the Scottish Parliament building. Back via the trains station and just in time for the 6:00 PM reservation. Beautiful, but cold afternoon. Delicious dinner. 8:30 bus. Used WiFi, read Observer.The big walk starts tomorrow.
Monday 13 April.
On to St Bees to meet Mike and Denise for the Coast to Coast Walk. Another big adventure documented elsewhere.