This was a big trip. The week in Scotland was the first adventure in a 4-week European tour that visited London, Paris, Florence and finished in an agritourismo close to Assisi in Umbria.
Note all photos are from Betsy’s collection because the idiot Gordon left his camera on a seat at an airport in Paris.
This page will concentrate on the Scotland part. It was special because this was to be our opportunity to climb the Inaccessible Pinnacle in the Black Cuillins. Jesper had promised to use his mountaineering skills to help many of us bag this famous Munro. Before leaving the USA we had been on an expedition to REI and bought new climbing harnesses (Gordon’s Willans sit-harness was so old that it was probably dangerous), helmets, additional carabiners, and abseil gear for Betsy (Gordon’s old figure of eight was still good). We had also taken a beginners class at a climbing wall in Nashua where we learned about tying on to the rope and belaying. Another break with tradition, rather than bringing crampons, we had bought some new microspikes. If we needed ice axes, we thought that we could borrow them.
We also tried a new route to the Highlands. At the time there was a nonstop flight from Newark to Edinburgh. This was turned out well after the usual hassle of getting a connection from Boston and then the long wait at Newark.
At this point, it’s worth noting that we could see a lot of snow on the hills as we landed at EDI. It set our expectations for the week needless to say and mad us a bit pessimistic about the Inn Pin.
We had booked a night in at a B&B in Pitlochry with the intention of chipping away at the Munros close to the A9 near the Drumochter pass on the way to Skye, we had also booked a night at a hotel in Kyleakin, across the Skye Bridge.
Wednesday 28 March: Drove to Pitlochry after leaving the airport. This drive started a tradition that lasted for several years. We stopped at the RSPB site at Loch Leven. Betsy dropped off some postage stamps that she had collected and we had the first of several lunches at the cafe.
Thursday 29 March: Càrn na Caim and A’ Bhuidheanach Bheag. These two Munros are easily accessible from the A9, across the road from the Dalwhinnie distillery. On a normal day this would be a straighforward hike, and mostly it was on this occasion, but snow line was very low and although the first part was an easy walk up the track from some electricity company workings, we soon needed out microspikes.
When on the plateau we felt as if we were in the Antarctic, or maybe the Greenland ice cap. It was cold and the view for miles was just whiteness under a blue sky.
Having climbed the first summit we could see the second Munro. Two women showed up; they had just climbed the other summit and they pointed out the route to us. Fence posts were extremely useful on this walk.
A subsidiary peak had a quartz marker, then we went down into a gully and up a long slope to a second subsidiary peak before reaching the actual top of A’ Bhuidheanach Bheag.
The descent had its “moments”. At one point we were lost and followed our tracks round in a circle, but eventually we came down a gully where there was evidence of snowboards. Frankly it looked to me as if there was a danger of avalanches, but eventually we came across the family of off piste boarders and they did not seem to care.
There were many ptarmigan visible for the whole hike. Some could be heard calling.
We met up with the first pair of walkers again in the gully. They were front pointing down. We were less adventurous and took a more gentle route. Eventually we found the track again for the walk down. Finished at 6:00 pm. We were due in Kyleakin that night. Gordon called to tell them that we would be late. He also called Bob I and asked him to get salad for the following day;s dinner (we were cooking).
On the way to Skye we were hungry and it was not until we reached Kyle of Lochalsh that we were able to get something. It was an Indian restaurant. OK is the best I can say. We reached the hotel before 10:00 PM. It was a bit faded with some recent upgrading. Betsy noted that the room was clean with plaid carpet and wall hangings. It was run by an English former Royal Navy officer and there was plenty of memorabilia.
A very memorable and interesting day on what the guide book describes as “uninteresting hills”.
Saturday 30 March. Very nice homemade granola for breakfast. We had a whole day to get for Glendale. On the way we had to buy food ready for the dinner that we were making. This year it would be vegetarian spaghetti with salad. We had to buy the Quorn at some point. However, there was plenty of time, so we took photos as a worked or way around the Island.
We stopped in Broadford and then at Sligachan for tea before heading to Portree and shopping. The small Coop in the centre of town is well stocked and we were able to purchase everything.
At this point one of the strangest events of the whole trip occurred. Just as we left the store the cell phone rang. It was Joe Macord, a real estate agent, in Campton New Hampshire. Somehow he had our UK cell phone number (maybe Gordon gave it to him). He had found a cash buyer for our cottage. It had been on the market for 2 years and we had more or less decided not to sell it. In fact, we had told Joe that we wanted to keep the place. Anyway the price was OK, not great, and we felt that it was a good time to go ahead. So we told Joe that although we would not be able to sign anything for another 4 weeks, he could go proceed. It would not leave much time for us to clean out the place after our return because the buyer had a time constraint for moving in. It’s another story, but all worked out in the end.
On we went to Glendale via numerous single track roads. Our first destination was the village hall where were were supposed to be able to do our cooking and eating. There had been a SNAFU. The water had frozen and we could not use the building. We had been forewarned about this at some point (phone call or text) and all our eating plus much of the cooking was to be done at the biggest of the houses called Hamara Lodge, or in our own houses, ours was called Mondhallagh Cottage. So much work was done at our base and then we headed off to Hamara Lodge where, with significant help from Kathy, Liz, Bob, Janet, Clive, the meal was made. Cooks were to eat in the kitchen. Everybody else had to find a spot on floor or wherever there was room.
Sunday 31 March: Macleod’s Tables. We joined a large group consisting of Phil, John, Ian, Heather, David W, Jesper, Matthew, Phils. The plan was for a south to North linear walk with car spotting from Orbost to Skinidin.
These two summits are not especially high, but are very prominent from many places on Skye because of their shape. The names come from a story about one of the Macleod chiefs that boasted about having the biggest dining able and the biggest chandelier and the most beautiful ceiling in all of Scotland. He invited his guests to the North Table where a banquet was spread out. Clansmen held torches around the perimeter of the plateau and the stars in the sky decorated the “ceiling”.
It was not the most dramatic of days, but the cold weather had ensured that normally boggy areas were solid underfoot. We all had a good warm up hike for what proved to be a very significant week for many of us.
Monday 1 April. Bruach na Frithe. This was one of those days that we will never forget! The weather was good temperature on the low side, just right for tackling snow-covered Cuillins.
Bruach na Frithe is on the right hand side of the picture when viewing the Cullins from the road between Broadford and Portree. The route we took was up the well defined track from Sligachan. It leads to the corrie below the summit with the Basteir tooth on the left hand side. Fairly early on we realised that full winter gear would be necessary. Betsy and I had our microspikes, as did Phils. Others had full crampons. The microspikes turned out to be very good. People were impressed by them.
The walk was a steep climb up fresh snow. Spikes and axes were absolutely essential. Betsy and I had borrowed axes from Phil. This was a dramatic climb and very scary!’
The following views speak for themselves.
On the way down, we met Dave Kee and Dave Brough on the way up. They made it!
Tuesday 2 April: Sgurr na Banachdich. Spurred on by our success of the day before we headed for another Munro. This time we were heading for a rarity in the Cuillin – a summit that is sometimes considered to be easy. Easy in Skye terms is not easy in most circumstances, but the route up this one is certainly less exposed than others so the group from the day before was joined by Heather. We set off from the car park near the Fairy Pools on the road down into Glen Brittle.
Tremendous views from the summit.
We were a well-equipped group, but there was a prty on the summit that was only wearing trainers. Not very good in that snow. Their feet must have been cold and wet. We also used spikes above snow line.
We retraced our route with a slight modification with a diagonal line below Sgurr nan Gobhar and rejoined the track further down. A first class day.
Wednesday 3 April: Outing to the Talisker Distillery and Talisker Bay. A rest day was needed after two serious ascents. We were joined by Bob, Clive C, Jilly, Phils, Kathy.
A trip to Skye is always incomplete without a visit to the Talisker distillery in Carbost. On this occasion we signed up for our Diageo Passports and started on a quest to visit all of the distilleries on their list. Carbost is actually a very attractive spot
After our wee dram we went to Talisker Bay. On the way were examples of chainsaw art
We parked the car near a large old house and walked out to the beach (about 1 mile).
Thursday 4 April: Preparation for the Inn Pin – abseil training from Jesper, Clive C, Dave Ward, Myles (had had experience, but needed a refresher) participated, plus Betsy and Gordon of course. Jesper set up a training arrangement by trying a rope around a tree on a steep slope. he had us walk down the heather. Afterwards we packed up the climbing gear and set off to Portree for a boat trip. We had been told that sea eagles could be seen and that the boatman would get them to grab fish from the boat.
So we boarded the “Brigadoon” just before 2:00 PM after eating our sandwiches at the harbour – plenty of seagulls were after our food!
Actually although we saw sea eagles circling from their nesting sites on the cliffs north of Portree they did not seem interested in getting fish from our boat. Maybe they had overeaten earlier in the day!
Friday 5 April: The Main Event (if the others weren’t enough). Sgurr Dearg aka The Inn Pin (Inaccessible Pinnacle).
To be honest, the weather had not been promising and I was seriously concerned that all our preparation and expense on equipment would turn out to be in vain. In fact it was a sunny and cold day. We were all in a good mood. Jesper was keen to help 6 of us over this major hurdle on our way to bagging a full set of Munros.The group was Betsy and Gordon, Jesper, Dave Ward, Clive C, Myles, Liz England. Photos and support came from John Ormerod and John Callard.
We gathered at the ridge. The ascent was far from straightforward because some loose looking snow was obscuring the route. So with more than a little concern about avalanches, we took what we thought was the best line.
There was a guided party on the route already (the same one that we had seen on Bruach na Frithe on Monday), so we had to wait.
Jesper sorted his kit out and when the route was clear of people, he, Liz and Dave Ward descended to the start of the climb. Jesper went ahead and set up the protection of slings, etc. while being belayed by Liz or Dave (we don’t know who). He positioned himself next to “The Bear” and secured himself. We soon saw Dave and Liz on top and after they abseiled back down a big cheer went up.
The rest of us waited. It was very cold; extra layers helped. Climbing involves a lot of hanging about. No time to think about it, the rest of us unloaded our rucksacks and headed down to start the ascent
The cold and mist had led to some wavering enthusiasm in us while we were hanging around, but when Liz and Dave came down everything changed. We did have to wait a short while longer when a pair of climbers that were moving fast came along the ridge. We chose to let them go first because we were likely to be slow.
Eventually, Jesper led us in pairs. He set himself up at the Bear and up we went. Betsy and Gordon, follwed by Clive and Myles. For Betsy, as she is shorter than others, the occasional pull on the rope from Jesper helped. It was hands and feet. At the half way point we had to clip to the rock and move over an arrangement set up so that the rope could be retrieved. A sling was attached to the chain at the Bear so the main rope and a safety rope were threaded. Myles descended first, followed by the rest of us. Gordon was shivering a bit because of the penetrating cold. Clive followed Myles, then Gordon, then Betsy. After we all reached the base of the pinnacle, Jesper set the rope and came down. There were many cheers and hugs. Jesper was the hero of the day. Liz and Dave plus a few others left first. Betsy and Gordon stayed to help Jesper carry his equipment down the hill. He is very methodical and it took some time to coil the rope. We ate some food before sharing the load among ourselves and picking up what was needed..
We were slow in getting back to Glen Brittle. It was about 9:00 pm and completely dark when we reached the youth hostel and the car. Some people came out and asked us about the pair of climbers that we had seen earlier. The ones that we allowed to go ahead. Apparently they had been expected back. Then we looked up at the ridge and saw lights flashing on top. They were obviously still working their way across using headlamps.
Back at base Gordon was starting to show signs of hypothermia (non stop shivering), but that did not get in the way of celebrating. It was a late dinner supplemented by Talisker whiskey from Bob. We kept reciting “we did it” on our return to Mondhallagh Cottage. We had to start packing for our journey south the following day.
Saturday 6 April. Another Easter week had flown by, but this time we were off on a longer trip. On the Sunday we were to fly to London for a 4-day trip. In the meantime we had the usual food scramble when we all met with the left-overs. By 9:40 everyone was packed and we were on the road.
It was a leisurely journey to Edinburgh with a stop at the Sky Weavers to look at their bicycle powered looms Later we stopped at Dalwhinnie to use our Diageo passes for a tour of the distillery. That night we stayed at the Premier Inn near Edinburgh airport.
Sunday 7 April. It was still not the absolute end of our Scotland trip. Our flight to London was later in the day. The weather was very very wet, but we had the car, so we decided to take a drive to Dunbar an see John Muir’s birthplace. As founder of the Sierra Club and a father of the American National Park system, John Muir is an icon of the conservation movement. The tiny little house has been turned into a museum.
So ended one of our most successful weeks in Scotland.
