We stayed with Dave and Jeanne after arriving at Heathrow on the Wednesday before Easter. On Friday we took a taxi to Gatwick and spent one night the Premier Inn where there was a mix up with rooms. All turned out OK. In the morning we took EasyJet to Inverness. It was a slog for the hotel to the North Terminal because we were too cheap to get a taxi. On arrival we picked up the rental car (a Peugeot) and headed for the big Tesco to get out share of the food, then off to Laide.

The house was very good overall with en suite for all of us and lots of communal space including dance floor, but the rooms were very small. It was nice for us all to be able to eat in the same building. There were some nearby cottages hat were used by some of our group.

We concluded that this had been a reasonable hotel, but the small room size was not up to the current expectations and that the owners had decided to use it as a very large self-catering establishment. Some rooms has balconies (ours did not)
Sand House
Very close to the sea

On our first day, we walked to Rubba Reidh Point from Melvaig. Dave Wharton joined us. Very changeable weather – breezy sunshine or horizontal rain from the sea.

Dave examining the large tilted sedimentary rocks that are a feature of Rubba Reidh Point
Rubba Reidh Point
The bird life included nesting gulls, oyster catchers, cormorants
Spectacular coastline

In Day 2 (Monday) there was a lot of heavy rain. Dave W suggested a trip to the WW2 exhibit at Aultbea. There was not much to see, but apparently during hostilities, the area had been the hub of a Russian supply route. At the time we were there a NATO refueling station was on the shore – it might still be there. Afterwards we continued to Poolewe with Clive C and Dave W to see more WW2 displays. Visited the Slioch outdoor shop. Betsy ordered a made-to-measure hat and I bought a wallet big enough for ₤ notes – wallets for dollars are smaller.

In the afternoon we drove to the west side of Gruinard Bay. and walked to the beach over several hills. Very windy with several rain showers. Betsy helped a lamb back over a fence as it had become separated from its mother. It was crying and calling out. definitely a newborn – the umbilical was still attached. A groups of ewes nosed it to make sure that it was OK.

On the way to the beach (in the background)

Tuesday 18 April was a Munro-bagging day. We drove to the Ullapool Road for a climb on Eididh nan Clach Geala. The weather was pleasant at the start for a walk along a logging road through forest. Many primroses were blooming. and we saw a number of feral goats. They were even in the road as we drove to the start of the walk.

Beware of goats in road
Goats all over the place. Some of our group disputed that these were goats, but we have since learned that our observation was correct and the are feral goats in a few places in the northwest of Scotland.
More of them! They liked to graze on the heather.
Primroses next to the path

The clouds lowered so hat we could no longer see the peaks above us or our destination. Lunch was had near a trail junction during a snow squall.

Hills disappearing ahead of us, but the clouds cleared for a short while and we confirmed that we were on the track. Even more goats!

We walked up on to the wide ridge which took us east to the summit cairn. There were ravens nearby.

The cairn was covered in hoar frost
Retracing our route back to the track and on to the car.

On Wednesday 19 April we had a slow start. Betsy had hurt her ankle the previous day, so we decided on a quiet easy outing. Betsy picked up her new hat from Poolewe then we drove northeast towards Ullapool. Our first stop was Corrieshalloch Gorge.

Corrieshalloch Gorge. Quite spectacular.
Crossed by this metal bridge. Perfect for photos
Cut by the River Droma. An example of the power of meltwater
It’s also home to a regionally rare species of cranefly that likes the dead wood in the shaded areas.

Our eventual destination was Ullapool. Scene of some of Gordon’s adventures in the 1970s. Especially a multi-day camp with Chris Beddows in 1975. That’s another story, but the town hadn’t changed much. The Ferry still operated to the Outer Hebridges and the fishermen were still busy.

Ullapool
View across Loch Broom at Ullapool
The hills look forbidding in late spring weather

On the way back we stopped at Lochmelm Gardens. This Victorian era site had been rejuvenated after a 40-year abandonment (1945-1985). Many specimen trees were thriving there along the shores of Loch Broom. Many sequoias, cedars, rhododendrons, 2 monkey puzzle trees weeping beech. We met an old fellow and he amused us by telling us almost immediately that he was from Yorkshire. Thus fitting the stereotype.

Sequoia
Rhododendron
Cedar? Betsy sporting her new hat. It had a label in the middle and she always hated that!
Monkey puzzle tree?
Beech

On our return, we stopped at a restaurant in Aultbea that claimed to have the smallest legal still and sold it’s home-brewed whisky.

Feral goats were everywhere again next to the road.

King or queen of the goats

Thursday was a banner day. Despite misgivings about Betsy’s ankle and Gordon being concerned about his weak left knee we packed our rucksacks. Dave Wharton led us on a walk to the Fannichs. 3 Munros is glorious sunshine. Snow everywhere and splendid views with An Teallach dominating everything.

An Teallach with all its memories from 1986 flooding back to Gordon

The initial ascent was steep initially on to the ridge, followed be a gentle walk up to the first snowless summit. Dave disturbed a pair of black grouse and Betsy found a feather which she kept as a souvenir. Ice axes came out for the second summit with opportunities for dramatic photos. There was an alpine-worthy cornice that we avoided carefully.

Getting out the winter gear
Stay to the right… Dave was much faster than us slow coaches (especially Gordon)
Carrying that gear is worthwhile
Our leader, Mr Wharton
We have had 2 more trips to the Fannichs to finish off this group of Munros
If you arrive first, you get more time to relax and enjoy the view
Betsy made the most of the day. I had this photo as wallpaper on my work laptop for a while
It was year or two before we took on the nearby summits.

On Friday 20 April, we were off again. This time with Phil as leader of a big group heading for a couple of peaks near Ben Dearg. In fact of the group of four summits that could be done on this day, Betsy and I had already climbed the most northerly one, Eididh nan Clach Geala on Tuesday.

The view of An Teallach dominated in the west as usual in this area.

An Teallach

We followed the forest road, but after passing through the fence, Phil took us on a detour by dropping steeply down to the brook, leaping across it and and c.imbing up the hillside on the low end of the ridge leading to the summit of Ben Dearg. I seemed to be a long walk, probably because of the amount of effort required.

An interesting feature is the well built continuous stone wall that runs all the way to the summit. At point place it runs along the edge of a precipitous cliff. The summit was reached at 3:00 PM.

Di, Clive J, Clive C, Phil, Betsy, Lynn on Ben Dearg

There’s a good view to the northwest and Loch Broom with Ullapool very visible

Loch Broom and Ullapool
Stack Pollaidh and Cul Mor almost look close by.

Next we turned north to the second Munro of the day, Meall nan Ceapraichean which we reached by 4:00 PM.

On to the second Munro Meall nan Ceapraichean

Having completed two Munros, Clive, Di, Betsy and Gordon concluded that the best thing was retreat because we were all tired. Phil took Clive and Lynn up the peak that Betsy and I had climbed on Tuesday and the rest of us followed a “short cut” suggested by Phil. There’s not much to say about this other than it was far from short and quite hard with a lot of post holing through wet and soft deep snow. A slog in other words. In retrospect, we would have been better if we had bagged the Muro for a second time!

Summit of Meall nan Ceapraichean

That left us one more summit in this group for another day. In fact it was Easter 2015, so more on that on another page.