This could be called the “CRM” trip. CRM being an abbreviation for “Charles Rennie Mackintosh”. It was also Bob Ingram’s first Easter Scotland week.
Anyway we arrived in Glasgow via London on Good Friday (or was it Thursday?) and as usual Betsy’s bag was left behind. I became a bit agitated with BA about this, but they said that it was at Heathrow and would arrive at our hotel. On that first day we looked around the town and visited the Glasgow School of Art; one of CRM’s most famous and celebrated buildings. It’s burbed twice since then and there are serious concerns about its structural strength and whether a re-build is possible.
We agonised about Betsy’s bag for most of the day. It showed up at 10:15 pm. In the evening we had a nice veggie meal nearby.
Saturday 11 April – Helensburgh. Today we collected the car from Avis in the city. As it was Easter weekend the rental company had run out of vehicles and instead of the Ford Focus sized car that had been requested we were given a monster VW. This was the first car that I had used with the “blue” economy gadget and it took a while before I worked out that it would naturally shut the engine off at traffic lights, etc. Anyway all worked out well and we bought the groceries at Morrsions in Dunbarton.
We continued our investigation of CRM buildings by stopping at Hill House, Helensburgh. Plenty of photos were taken, but we didn’t pay the entrance fee. The Japanese influence is obvious as is his own influence on Frank Lloyd Wright. The building is currently (2022) undergoing a 10-year refurbishment.
Then we made tracks north past the Peace camp next to the Royal Navy nuclear submarine base at Faslane.
We arrived at Kinlochmoidart House (KLM) in good time, and were in the same room as we used in 2001. We liked it a lot even though it was located at the top of a narrow stone staircase. There was one difference in the house – I seem to remember that the bear had disappeared.
Bob had an adventure in getting to Scotland. He was planning to get a lift with Jesper and had stayed with him on Good Friday, but Jesper was ill that day and couldn’t travel. So Bob tried the train from Manchester – mistake. Anyway Bob arrived at Fort William late so Betsy and I collected him from the station.
Sunday 12 April. Kentra and “Singing Sands”. Bob I, Dave W, Rosemary. Dave L, Janet and Gordon Cooper joined us. It was a very warm day – no jacket was needed. There were good views in all directions.
Later we drive around to Castle Tioram and saw Eilean Shona, an island that happens to be owned by Richard Branson’s sister. The ferryman has to be used to get there. We walked out to the castle and collected shells.
Monday 13 April – We were cooking starter and dessert; salad and sundaes so a short day was required. Bob had been rounded up to join the culinary effort. It seemed like the right time for an exploration of the Kinlochmoidart estate, something we had not done in 2001. Bob joined Betsy and me for a walk around the house followed by a hike up to Loch nan Pairtean in the hills nearby.
Our choice of food seemed to go down well so a good quiet day was had and it turned out to be excellent preparation for the following day.
Tuesday 14 April – Met John and Marj Foster for a Munro-bagging trip to the Loch Lochy Hills. We met at Laggan locks on the Caledonian Canal for the walk along a forestry road into woodland. We soon reached the col between our target Munros. We climbed Meall na Teanga first. The lower track was eroded and somewhat wet, but followed a gentler slope to the summit. After photographs were taken (another hiker helped) we retraced our steps to the col and continued up switchbacks on a stalkers’ path to the grassy slope and summit of Sron a Choire Ghairbh. Snow was still clinging to the northeast ridges and slopes. Continued by the way we had come to the cars and then to visit John and Marj at their new home in Fort Augustus.
After socialising with tea and light refreshments we called KLM House because we were going to be late for dinner. A two-Munro days is always a worthwhile achievement. Portions of the dinner were kept back for us: smoked salmon starter, followed by venison stew, and caramel mouse. Excellent. In bed by midnight.
Wednesday 15 April – Drive to Mallaig for the ferry for the Island of Rhum, more correctly Rùm. The ferry visits a number of small islands, but Rùm is the largest and has the most to see. We had 4 hours to spend before the boat returned to take us all back to Mallaig.
There are only about 30 full. time residents of the island and they all live in the hamlet of Kinloch, but it’s possible to rent holiday homes there. 4 hours was not enough to explore the place properly. There is a lot of hiking and some follies left by the former owner, John Bullough (1838–1891).
Thursday 16 April – Ben Nevis via Carn mor Dearg arrête. Betsy and I were joined by Christine Cannon – Gordon C’s cousin. Christine had climbed Ben Nevis by the tourist path earlier in the week and found it tiresome. She was interested in doing it by a much better route. There is no doubt that Carn mor Dearg is an excellent ascent, but rather longer than an simple up and down from the youth hostel. Inhade been this way in 1986 when a group of us had camped at Steall.
We left the car in the car park at the eastern end of the Glen Nevis road where we met a group team from the BBC that were making panoramic views to be used on the website. They had to climb 30 Munros and take photos. It looked like a nice job on the face of it, but the camera equipment seemed to be very heavy and bulky. Maybe not!
From there, we walked up the path to Steall. Little had changed since our camp there in 1986, We followed Allt Corrie Giubhsachan to the col between Carn mor Dearg and Aanoch Mor.
At the col we had lunch and turned westwards to the summit of Carn mor Dearg. Ice axes were needed on the short steep snow patch, but it was much easier than in 1986. We met the BBC team again They had a very nonchalant attitude to the very expensive gear that they carried – leaving bits and pieces lying about on rock as the strong wind blew.
There was snow in pockets all the way to the summit of Ben Nevis. Boots became wet. Cloud came in and the wind blew hard. We stopped for refreshments before ascending the summit cone.
There were several parties at the summit that had come up by the tourist route. Some were very poorly equipped and wearing only training shoes (sneakers). Some looked very cold, but I suppose that they had achieved their goal and could talk about it later.
The fog was very thick and it’s it’s not all that easy to find the descent from what is a featureless summit plateau. A compass was needed, but once we were on the tourist path it was an easy walk down in bright afternoon sunshine. There were some good views when below the cloud and we passed waterfalls near the trail. It was interminable along endless zigzags though! At one point we stopped for tea and chocolate to get some energy an enthusiasm.
It was 7:20 when we arrived at the Glen Nevis youth hostel and it was several miles along the road to the car. Fortunately another walking party took pity on us and gave me a lift to the end of the road, in the meantime, Betsy and Christine had water and a snack at a picnic spot next to the road.
It was 9:15 pm when we arrived back at KLM. The starter was finished, but there was an excellent meal of ham with mustard mash, cauliflower, cheese and broad beans. Dessert was sticky toffee pudding with homemade caramel sauce. Excellent.
It had been a very challenging and exciting walk. A hot bath was needed. I think back to 1986 when I was much younger, we did not have a lift to the car, walked all the way back to Steall, broke camp, carried all our gear back to the car then continued to Poolewe. I think we were much fitter as well as younger.
Friday 17 April – rest day. Laundry and preparation for leaving. Bob I, Betsy and I took a trip to Arasaig where we had lunch. Afterwards we drove to the Glenfinnan monment. On the way home we stopped at MacDonald’s smoke house and bought gifts like a large smoked salmon to give to our friends Chris and Heather Beddows where we would be staying next.
Back at K:LM, we had a G&T and enjoyed the final group meal.
Saturday 18 April. After the food frenzy, we headed south, stopped at Fort William and bought bits and pieces including a visit to Ellis Brigham and Nevisport. Arrived at Chris and Heather’s house at 8:20 pm. Excellent pasta dinner followed by cheese and crackers.