Easter 2011 – Loch Carron – Gordon and Betsy

This time we flew via Glasgow where we picked up our rental car and drove to the Premier Inn (500 yards). The car was a pleasant surprise – an Alpha Romeo Guilietta turbo diesel; very nice. After settling at the hotel, we took a bus to the city centre and walked around for a while to help with jet lag recovery. We had tea at the Willow Tea Rooms on Buchannon Street and enjoyed the Charles Rennie Macintosh designs. Had dinner back at the hotel and slept solidly.

On Saturday 23 April (St George’s Day), we were on the road early, reached Tyndrum by 10: 30 and met Bob at Morrison’s in Fort William at 11:30 for the required shopping expedition. Had lunch in the car to avoid the drizzle which soon cleared, then on to Loch Carron via Shiel Bridge. The gorse was bright yellow in bloom.

Our cottage in Loch Carron was called Hawthorndene. It’s on the main road facing the loch. Excellent spot

Sunday 24 April. Easter Sunday. Very misty and heavy rain. The BBC forecast said that the weather would clear by noon, but by 10:00 am it was still looking bleak. After a leisurely morning we drove to the Achnashellach station parking area. In 2005 we had been thwarted on a 2-Munro day when the weather forced us of the hills after one summit and in the wrong place.The rain had stopped and this seemed like a good time to bag the missing mountain, Sgurr Ruadh. The cloud was low. By about 1:00 PM we started the hike. We could see Beinn Liath Mhor in front – it was the mountain that we had successfully climbed in 2005.

We Followed a track across a hanging valley

View of a buttress of Fuar Tholl. We had lunch here.

Good views from the summit. We arrived after missing the path slightly and taking a direct route after which time we were on track to bag another Munro

Headed back by the correct route and were at the house by 6:00 pm. A miserable start to the day had led to success and closure of unfinished business. We were the only people that climbed a hill on that day and we were peppered with questions like “did you really climb a Munro today?”.

Monday 25 April – Cooking and a relaxed day. After chopping a lot of vegetables, we took a look around Loch Carron and then headed off to Glen Elg and the brochs.

On the way over we stopped to take in the splendid view of the Five Sisters of Kintail. I had done them twice; once in 1983 and again in 1992. They were among Betsy’s first Munros on her inaugural Easter Scotland trip in 1992.

We had visited the brochs on a miserable day in 1992 with Mandy. This time the weather was excellent.

…and Dun Trodden. There is plenty of explanation about the sites. These iron age structures seemed to be dwellings built for protection and shelter.

Recently, we had been reading about Gavin Maxwell. Among this troubled person’s enterprises was his attempt at a basking shark oil business in Scotland. He had lived near Glenelg when he wrote some of his famous books about otters. We continued down the coast to Sandaig and looked at the most famous place were he had lived and studied the otters. His place was called Camusfearna in the books.

It’s a nice walk down to the beach at Sandaig

Edal the otter featured in his book “Ring of Bright Water”and in the associated Disney film. Edal died in the fire at the house.

Maxwell’s house burned. This old croft was there at the time.

The streams around are where the otters lived and are described in the books.

Some bits and pieces are still there, whether the wall and the old machine were Maxwell’s can be answered with some research I’m sure.

We were the only ones on the beach for most of the visit.

Back in time for a G&T with Dave Lydiatt. Late dinner because a large party had gone to Torridon to climb Liathach.

Tuesday 26 April. We had arranged to meet John and Marj Foster for a hike up Beinn Fhada. Heather and David were to join us too. We were late arriving at the trailhead because one of my boot laces broke – we stopped at an outdoor store near Eilean Donan Castle to get new ones. At 10:15 though we were on our way.

Took a walk to the subsidiary top then followed a cliffside path back to the zig-zags. Another Munro would have been possible, but it was getting late so we left it for another day. After the long walk out it was 6:00 pm when we were back at the cars. John and Marj headed home.

Beef stew back at Loch Carron where the stars were still out. Altogether a successful, if tiring day.

Wednesday 27 April. A day to recover from exertions, so we walked with Bob I and Dave L to Lochcarron Weavers. After lunch we went to Attadale Gardens in Strathcarron. It would have been an excellent day, but I had some sort of stomach bug. So did Clive James we learned later. Anyway we enjoyed ourselves.

The gardens were spectacular.

Attadale House. In its 19th century gardens.

We returned for tea and I was still feeling off colour so had a nap before dinner. Nice lamb stew from Mandy with fruit tarts for dessert from Janet.

Thursday 28 April. I had been sick in the night. Betsy did postcards, etc. I stayed in bed. She went for a walk around Strathcarron with Bob I.

This sculpture in the schoolyard was made of scraps of rope from fishing lines and traps.

Betsy saw cormorants, seals and herring gulls on the rock islands from the cottage at low tide. During the day, she heard more than one cuckoo and also saw song thushes, sparrows, swallows, rooks, chaffinch, blue tits, oyster catchers, eiders, skylark.

I skipped dinner and was sick again at 11:00 pm, but OK afterwards. What did I eat?

Friday 29 April Bob I now sick!. Clive proposed a trip to Sheildaig to look for sea eagles. We didn’t see any, but we had a nice walk. We saw gulls, cormorants, shags, and oyster catchers. Buzzards were hovering over the road. Also we heard a cuckoo. A very relaxing day. Heather and David showed up while we had tea at “Nanny’s” on he seafront.

Saturday 30 April – Off and on our way to Inverness and then south to York eventually, but with a night in Stirling on the way. Stopped at Bruar for shopping.

Sunday 1 May – Took the guided tour of Stirling Castle; very interesting. In York by 6:00 PM